The best overlocker is considered to be one that can not only finish fabric edges but also create decorative stitches, joining elements into a complete piece.
A rolled hem on an overlocker is a seam that looks like a thick stitch along the edge of an item, created through a high stitch frequency. The appearance of such a stitch became necessary because there are products whose edges cannot be turned under. Most often, this type of stitch is used in curtain making, dance costumes and Lingerie.
Types of Rolled Hems
There are the following types:
- Two-thread – These are used on very thin materials, where minimal thread is needed.
- Three-thread – These are standard in production, as they include a clamp for the upper looper. Beginners often use these stitches.
- Four-thread – These include an additional row of stitching, which provides extra durability, allowing for both edge finishing and joining of elements simultaneously.
The stitch uses three loopers and two needles — one of them performs a chain stitch, which allows for edge processing and joining of elements.
Before starting work on an overlocker, you need to check that no threads remain on the stitch regulator. To do this, raise the presser foot, turn the handwheel, and then remove any leftover threads.
The most important thing to remember is that how the rolled hem looks on your item depends on your overlocker’s setup. Each overlocker has specific settings. To make the stitch look the way you want, you should always test it on a scrap piece of fabric.
💡 Tip: You can see a real-time example of optimal settings for a beautiful invisible rolled hem in this YouTube tutorial:
Bikini Panties Rose – Lingerie Sewing Tutorial
How the Overlocker Works
- At the beginning of the process, you need to remove the left needle, and then disable the blade.
- Switch the lever to the rolled hem mode, activating the necessary function.
- To get the desired stitch result, turn the density lever to “R” — this ensures maximum stitch density for lightweight materials. Adjusting the width will help prevent the fabric from fraying during further work.
- Thread the loopers accordingly.
- After placing the fabric under the presser foot, ensure that the right needle is 2 mm from the edge of the fabric.
- When processing with a rolled hem, gently guide the fabric under the presser foot, and make sure the cut edge aligns with the needle.
- When working on the machine, hold the fabric with your left hand to ensure smooth feeding. If problems occur, stop sewing and return the fabric to its original position.
Conclusion
A rolled hem can give your projects that clean, professional finish, whether you’re working with delicate lingerie, lightweight curtains or flowy garments – something that, with just a bit of practice and the right machine settings, you can achieve.
In case you are still confused about the setup, or simply want to see the process in action, be sure to check out the tutorial: Bikini Panties Rose – Lingerie Sewing Tutorial
Give it a try on a scrap of fabric, take your time on the settings, and enjoy how satisfying a neat invisible rolled hem can feel!
Find more tutorials on my sewing blog and start building your handmade wardrobe.
Happy sewing! 🧵✨
